The Autumn/Winter 2019 Celine collection, unveiled under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, wasn't just a fashion show; it was a seismic event in the fashion world. It marked a decisive break from the established Celine identity, a shift so dramatic it sparked intense debate and, perhaps more importantly, fundamentally reshaped the brand's image and its place within the luxury landscape. This analysis will delve into the AW19 Celine men's show, scrutinize the runway dresses, examine the controversy surrounding Slimane's vision and its impact on the perception of "what happened to Celine men," and finally, speculate on the legacy of this collection and the anticipation surrounding Celine Vipiana's future (though, strictly speaking, Vipiana's era predates this collection). We will draw parallels to the analytical rigor expected from a Financial Times piece, examining the collection not just aesthetically, but through the lens of brand strategy, market positioning, and the financial implications of such a bold rebranding.
The AW19 Men's Show: A Deconstruction of Celine's Heritage
The AW19 men's show was, in many ways, the epicenter of the controversy. Slimane, known for his slim-fit silhouettes and rock-and-roll aesthetic, completely overhauled the previously established Celine menswear. Phoebe Philo, Slimane's predecessor, had cultivated a sophisticated, understated elegance, characterized by relaxed tailoring and a muted colour palette. Slimane, in contrast, presented a collection that was aggressively youthful, sharply tailored, and heavily laden with references to 1970s and 1980s rock music subcultures. The skinny jeans, leather jackets, and graphic tees were a stark departure from Philo's intellectual minimalism.
This wasn't merely a stylistic shift; it was a strategic repositioning. Philo's Celine had attracted a mature, discerning clientele, while Slimane's vision aimed for a younger, trend-conscious demographic. This strategy, while potentially lucrative in the short term by attracting a new customer base, risked alienating the existing, loyal customers who had been drawn to the brand's previous identity. This echoes the financial principle of risk vs. reward; a high-risk, high-reward strategy with potentially significant consequences for the brand's long-term profitability and brand equity. From a Financial Times perspective, one could analyze the market segmentation, the potential ROI of attracting a younger demographic, and the potential loss of revenue from alienating the older customer base.
Celine Runway Dresses: A Study in Contrasts
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